Mecca – The Mid Study-Leave Crisis

Since getting back from Switzerland, i’ve been climbing outside as much possible. In the first weeks I focused on bouldering and did a few things like The Press (7B+) and Ben’s Roof Extension (8A).

After this I turned my attention the the route Mecca-The Mid-Life Crisis, the classic f8b+ route at Raven Tor (of course!).

I had tried this 2 times at the end of last summer. Despite knowing the beta it still took me a bit of time to remember it all and start doing some links. I was due to go back to University two weeks ago but wasn’t keen as I hadn’t finished the route! I’ve been trying to focus on exams and have been limiting myself to two sessions a week but my work still suffered because I was too psyched to climb in the day! Last Saturday I went to try the route with Ted Kingsnorth and conditions were good and I felt well rested. On my first go I thought I had it but I managed to slip at the last possible moment with my hand in the flake you clip the chains off! This can be seen in the video below!

I had another go yesterday but was a bit doubtful when I saw the heavy rain and wind when I woke up. I tried to revise till 5 then headed to the Tor to meet Adam Hodgson and Ted. Despite the grim weather when we arrived Adam was psyched and managed to crush his 8a project which got me really motivated to try hard on Mecca. Luckily everything went right and I was clipping the chains after an intense 2 minutes. Turned out I had split a tip on that go so I was super lucky! Psyched

The plan now is to try and cram for the exams over the next two weeks then get on some new things from June to September. Psyched for some boulders and more power endurance routes!

Easter in Chironico 2013

Just got back from an easter trip to Chironico, Switzerland. Had a great time out there and was very impressed by the quality and amount of climbing there. The highlights being Willenberg Dach (8A) and Miss Schweiz (8A) as well as some very good climbs in the 7′s. Very psyched to keep going back there in the future, especially keen to try a Dave Graham 8A+ called The Great Shark Hunt next time! Definitely need to prepare my skin a bit better next trip though!

I now have 7 weeks left of my second year at university, will be doing a lot of revision from home so hopefully should be able to get out in the peak a fair bit during revision breaks

Aims for 2013

Now we are into the new year, I like a lot of people have been thinking about what I would like to achieve over the next 12 months. 2012 was a good year for me and I saw improvements both in my bouldering and sport climbing but small strength gains in comparison. This year I would like to train hard so I can get stronger and accelerate my improvement.

Every year I seem to set myself ambitiously high targets and the same is true for 2013… I would like to improve by a grade in both bouldering and sport climbing. A V12 in the UK – Sean’s Roof, Pilgrim and Vanilla Sky are some of the ones I intend to try. And Mecca is the F8b+ I am aiming for and feels a bit more achievable than the bouldering target at the moment!

As well as these grade specific aims I hope to have a trip aboard, Magic Wood in the Autumn is the plan! Also need to put more effort into eating well and try and avoid injuries if possible. First I need to finish uni exams in the next few weeks then crack on with training!

Psyched for what’s to come and wish everyone a happy new year!

Training at Depot and Some Comps

Been busy training lately at the Depot in Nottingham, it’s hard not to get addicted and climb everyday! Psyched to have started training on boards for the first time and a good scene of keen climbers is developing which is cool.

Also been doing some university comps which have been going reasonably well (apart from when slopers are involved… too much limestone over summer!). 3 weeks left of term then back home in the peak for 5 weeks so hoping to get out a bit more on the grit and flail on some slopers as well as revising for winter exams at uni :S Few more cool pics below of climbing in Depot all taken by Alex Messenger.

Uni Time

Over the last two weeks i’ve been finishing a few problems off before I go back to Uni on the limestone such as ‘Lets’ Get Ready to Rumbleweed’ 8A which can be seen in the video below.

I also opened my account on Mecca to get a feel for it, did all the moves and made a few links – cool route Looking forward to hopefully doing it next year! Was great to see the recent footage of Mina crushing it as well!

The other day Nathan and me decided to go to Anston Stones but we only made it half way! This short video explains why… Anston Fail

I am due to start back at Uni this Friday which seems to be good timing considering the weather! This will be the first time I have trained properly, so i’m going to start off steady and gradually build it up. Went to the Works yesterday and realised that although my finger strength is better on crimps and pockets, a lot has been lost power wise!

Well psyched to start training and working at the new Depot Climbing Centre in Nottingham, had a look around a few weeks ago and the place looks immense!

Hoping to see some good gains over the autumn/winter so I can step it up a level next year!

Peace (Y)

Zeke the Freak

Psyched to do my first f8b route today which was ‘Zeke the Freak’ at Rubicon.

Really enjoyed this route and highly recommend it! Feels great to have met my bouldering and sport targets for this Summer, will see what I can get done in the last 2 weeks before I go back to Uni now!
Peace (Y)

August Update

Just started getting into some sport climbing lately, did my second outdoor sport lead the other week, which was Rattle and Hump (f8a) at Raven Tor in a session. This got me pretty psyched for routes so now notching it up a level and trying Zeke the Freak (f8b) at Rubicon. Also been doing some easier boulder problems around as well as some filming with my brother which can be seen below.

 

Currently on family holiday in Cornwall so having a short break from climbing, planning on getting back on Zeke when i’m back Got 4 weeks left in the peak till I start back at university where i’m planning on training properly indoors over the winter for the first time – PSYCHED